Free dovetail calculator for traditional joinery. Calculate dovetail joint dimensions, pin and tail spacing, angles, and layout. Includes half-blind and through dovetail calculations. Perfect for drawers, boxes, and furniture. Create perfect-fitting dovetails every time!
Enter your board dimensions and dovetail specifications, then click "Calculate Dovetail Dimensions" to see your precise measurements and cutting instructions.
The dovetail angle determines both the mechanical strength and cutting difficulty of the joint. Traditional angles range from 8° to 20°, with specific recommendations based on wood species.
The 14° angle (1:8 ratio) is most common because it provides excellent mechanical advantage while remaining forgiving to cut. Steeper angles offer more resistance to pulling forces but require greater precision.
| Wood Type | Recommended Angle | Ratio | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hardwoods | 8°-14° | 1:6 to 1:8 | Maximum strength, harder to cut |
| Softwoods | 14°-20° | 1:8 to 1:4 | Prevents splitting, easier cutting |
| Universal | 14° | 1:8 | Balanced strength & workability |
Dovetails are self-clamping when properly cut. Apply light clamp pressure to close joints fully, but avoid excessive force that could cause splitting. Allow 24 hours for full cure before stressing the joint.
The trapezoidal (wedge-shaped) part of a dovetail joint, wider at the end. Tails interlock with pins. Named because they resemble a dove's spread tail feathers.
The narrower part of the dovetail joint that fits between the tails. Pins are typically narrower than tails and form the mechanical lock.
The partial pin at each edge of a dovetail joint. Narrower than regular pins, half-pins prevent the joint from sliding apart along the board width.
A dovetail where the joint goes completely through both pieces. Visible from both sides. Strongest variation. Used in cabinet sides, blanket chests, and visible joinery.
A dovetail hidden from the front face. Used for drawer fronts where the dovetail should not be visible. The tail board is shorter than the pin board thickness.
The slope of the tail sides. Measured in degrees (8°-20°) or ratios (1:6 to 1:4). Steeper angles = more strength but harder to cut. Shallower = easier but less mechanical lock.
A tool that scribes a consistent line parallel to a board's edge. Used to mark the baseline (depth) of dovetails. Set to the mating board's thickness.
The scribed line marking the depth of the dovetail joint. Tails and pins are cut to this line. Set at the exact thickness of the mating board for flush joints.
For beginners, 14° is the ideal dovetail angle. It provides good strength, is forgiving to cut, and works well with both hand and power tools. This angle balances mechanical strength with ease of cutting and fitting.
For drawers up to 6" wide: 2-3 tails. For 6"-12" wide: 3-4 tails. For 12"-18" wide: 4-5 tails. For wider than 18": 5-6 tails. Space them evenly with slightly narrower end tails for better appearance.
Always cut tails first. Tails are easier to cut accurately and can be used as templates for marking pins. This 'tails-first' method is the traditional approach and produces the most accurate results.
Through dovetails go completely through both pieces and are visible from both sides. Half-blind dovetails are hidden from the front face, commonly used for drawer fronts. Through dovetails are stronger but half-blind provide cleaner appearance.
Dovetails should fit together with firm hand pressure - no mallet needed. Too tight risks splitting; too loose weakens the joint. The joint should hold together without glue but not be so tight that assembly is difficult.
Yes, router jigs and table saw sleds can cut dovetails efficiently. However, hand-cut dovetails offer more flexibility in spacing and sizing. Power tools are great for production work, while hand tools provide traditional craftsmanship.